Masked dances of Nepal

At the heart of many Nepalese festivals are ritual dances: without the performance of those dances there is no festival. Historically dances in Nepal as well as festivals themselves were patronized by kings. Only the king could decide to introduce a new dance-drama or a new festival. Special masks are worn during such ritual dances. These masks are made of perishable materials such as papier mache, wood plastered with clay and linen, and are painted in lively colours. The masked dances tell intricate stories about the gods as well as great heroes.

Peacocks, crocodiles and picturesque scenery

Yesterday I spent in a nice peaceful place in Therai called Narayani resort. It is near Gaidakot town. So, what did I see there? Many things. First of all on arrival I was welcomed by a peacock who after seeing me decided to give greet me by spreading his beautiful feathers and showing them off in a dance.

Basant Panchami: Festival of Spring

Basant Panchami is a festival that has more than one meaning. It marks the beginning of spring ("basant" literally means "spring") and at the same time, it is a festival dedicated to Saraswati, Goddess of knowledge, wisdom, arts and music. Saraswati is supposed to celebrate her birthday and at the same time she opens the doors of the spring season. People, mostly women and schoolchildren, pay homage to the image of Saraswati and sprinkle the goddess' image with grains, flowers, fruits and sweets. To ensure success to all these offerings pujas have also to be performed to Ganesh, who decides about success or failure of all human enterprise.

Kathmandu mannequins

Namaste! 

Nothing much to say here, just have a look at these mannequins that I saw in the streets of Kathmandu

Laughing mannequin

Peacock motif

Peacock window of the Kumari house, Basantapur

I like ancient Hindus' description of peacock, it is precise and witty: "it has the feathers of an angel, the voice of the devil and the walk of a thief". You can see peacock image in so many places here in Kathmandu: it is a popular motif on windows and doors, it is a fashionable jewelry theme, it is a decoration item at weddings. Such popularity comes not only from the bird's beautiful look. In Hindu-Buddhist culture the peacock is viewed as a general symbol of good luck and prosperity.

Life in a Nepali village

Namaste!

Majority of people in Nepal live in villages. On one hand, life in a village seems almost idillic: beauty of nature, fresh air, no noise and pollution of cars, organic vegetables and fruits grown in your own garden. On the other hand, life in a village means hard work every day. In Nepal you can find rather big villages with even specialized services like tailors or blacksmiths, as well as such small ones that have only a few houses. Houses are built of thick rammed earth or large mud bricks. Windows if any face south and west. Roofs are flat and built of clay laid on brushwood or stones. Very often there is no electiricity or running water.

Scenes of life in Nepal

Namaste!

When my friends from Moscow came to Nepal for the first time, the first thing they were impressed of on the road from the airport was of the local butchers'. "Look, an orange pig!". In amazement and excitement they yelled, snapped cameras and shoot on video. The pig looked indeed orange, but this is not some special kind of local pig of this colour. The matter is that the skin of the animal is rubbed with with a special mixture of mustard oil, ashes, lemon juice and turmeric powder, which actually is the cause of the bright orange colour. This procedure protects the meat from drying out and wrinkling, and also it repels flies.

Stealing from Hanuman

Namaste! 

There is a complex of structures with the Royal Palace of the Malla kings and also of the Shah dynasty in the Durbar Square of Kathmandu. Near the entry gate to the palace there is a standing statue of Hanuman (monkey god), dated to 1672, guarding the palace. Hanuman is decked with a red cloth and an umbrella. Devotees often leave some offerings at the pedestal of the statue. Passing by the square I accidentally saw how one of the boys climbed up and stole those offering, a few bananas and some coins. He seems not to be one of the Hanuman's devotees. At least, not yet :)

Colours of Diwali

Another year, and another Diwali has come - the most joyful, colourful and noisy in good sense festival. I have written about it before (here) and so, will not repeat myself. Just a few more new photos of pre-Diwali streets of Kathmandu.

Warding off the evil eye

Namaste!

Walking along the streets of Kathmandu sometimes you can notice strange strings of lemons and chilies hanging in front of the doors of the houses or shops. These are meant to ward off the evil eye - any sickness or misfortune transmitted by someone who is envious, jealous or covetos. The belief is that a person, otherwise not evil in any way, can harm you, your children, your house, your health and so on, by looking at you with envy and even by praising you, so it does not always have evil intentions attached to it. Strangers, malformed persons and old women are most often accused of casting the evil eye.

Dasain, Nepal's greatest festival

One of the greatest festivals in Nepal is Dasain. It reminds me of Christmas in a way: same shopping fever when everybody buys gifts and new clothes, same gathering of all relatives together for celebration and same joyfull athmosphere around.
The ten days of Dasain represent both a battle of the forces of good over evil followed by celebrations for the success of good. The festival starts with the planting of jamara, a small plant whose needle shaped leaves are considered auspicious.

The best places to eat in Kathmandu

Crespelle from "Fire and Ice"

Namaste!

In Kathmandu there is a big choice of restaurants and cafes offering different types of food. Though food is very personal and subjective matter I would like to recommend a few of my favourite places that have never failed my expectations.

If you are a tourist most probably you would want to try traditional Nepali food. The best place for this is the "Nepali Chulo" restaurant (Lazimpat). Here you'll be able not only to enjoy typical dishes of Nepal but also to see small programm of traditional dances including the famous "Yak and Yeti" and "Peacock".

Cats of Kathmandu

Namaste!

The one thing that is rarely seen in the streets of Kathmandu is a cat. The large number of dogs, domestic as well as stray, stroll around but not cats. In the eyes of many Nepalese cats are not of such a great usefulness as dogs: they don't guard the house or the farm, they don't scare off unwanted visitors and they won't help you in case of attack of a hooligan. Instead they steal meat or milk whenever there is a chance for it. Besides many think that cats, especially black ones, are bad luck bringers.

Nepal's waterfalls

Namaste!

These photos I took a couple of weeks ago on the way to Mailung. So many beautiful waterfalls, some bigger, some smaller and all just along the road so you don't have to go somewhere special to see those amazing beauties. However if you happen to drive this road in winter or spring you will not probably see any of these waterfalls on the way because of the dry season. But straight after monsoon here they are in all their splendour and beauty.

Nepalese pottery

Namaste!

Pottery has a long history in Nepali culture. The oldest recorded finds in Lumbini date back at least 2600 years. The large ceramic water pots can be found in almost every village in Nepal which are used to collect, store and transport water. These vessels also keep water cool. Clay goods are also essential to many Hindu and Buddhist religious ceremonies. During pujas small ceramic cups are used to hold candles and butter lamps. Traditional Newari rice wine called aila is made using a special ceramic set-up crafted just for distilling rice or millet alcohol: several clay containers of various sizes are used in conjunction with a large ceramic vessel with holes punced in the bottom. Without this special holed vessel the creation of potent aila would not be possible.

Teej: woman's day Nepali way

Namaste!

Teej is the festival of Hindu women honouring their husbands. The first day is called darkhana and at this day women enjoy a real feast: all kinds of curry - mutton, chicken, fish and vegetable, with chutneys, eggs, fruits and sweets. The women often gather in one room and seat themselves on the floor around a spread of dishes. They eat, chat, joke and dance until midnight when the Teej fast starts. Not the finest crumb of food or the smallest drop of water should be taken for the following twenty four hours. This strict fast is performed on behalf of one's husband to ensure his good health and long life.
According to legends goddess Parvati fasted and prayed fervently for god Shiva to become his wife. Impressed by her devotion Shiva blessed her to be his wife. Parvati then sent emissary to spread the message of the religious fasting among mortal women promising prosperity and longevity to their husbands.

Krishna Jayanti festival

Krishna is one of the most popular deities among the Hindus. So the festival Krishna Jayanti, his birthday, is a big day for all devoties. During the day preceding the actual day of birth worshippers carry his garlanded and ornatly clothes idols in processions through the streets of Kathmandu. There are musicians and dancers in the groups. Images of Krishna are displayed in shops and at the doors of houses. Many kids are dressed as Krishna.

The most interesting places to visit in Nepal

Here is my personal list of the most interesting places in Nepal

1. Bhaktapur. Of the three ancient capitals of the Kathmandu valley (Bhaktapur, Lalitpur and Basantapur) Bhaktapur has better preserved its medieval character and unique identitiy. Visiting Bhaktapur is like visiting the past. In addition to the main square, which includes many ancient temples, the Palace of the 55 windows, the Golden Gate, the dog-barking bell, etc., there is also the potter place, the tallest in the Valley five-roofed temple and it is a pleasure to simply wander the town's narrow old streets admiring the finely carved windows, watching the townspeople, who do not pay any attention to the tourists and go about their normal activities. In my opinion, in Bhaktapur there is much more interesting things and artistic treasures to see than Lalitpur or Basantapur cat offer. So if you have to choose between these three, go to Bhaktapur. (more about Bhaktapur)

Sankhu town and its goddess

Sankhu is the ancient Nepalese town which lies beside the holy Salinadi river about 20 km east of Kathmandu. Though it is called "town" but it looks more like a village with typical culture and architecture of a Newar settlement. The town is said to be guarded by Asta matrikas, the eight goddesses. Each of these goddeses has been placed in the eight different directions of Sankhu.
On the northern hill slope from Sankhu there is a temple of one of the important mother goddess, Khadga Jogini. Holding a khadga (scimitar) in her right hand and a flower in her left hand, Khadga Jogini is made of stone. On both sides from the goddess there are her attendants, the deities of super natural power. Not far from this temple there is another one of metal-made gilded Khadga Jogini.

Traditional masks of Nepal

Namaste!

Traditional masks of Nepal can be devided into two sorts: "tribal" masks which belong to the ethnic groups such as Gurung, Magar, Tharu, Rai etc and which are also referred to as "shaman's" masks; and "classical" masks which represent Hindu and Buddhist gods and goddesses.

The classical Nepali masks always represent deities or demons and never the dead or the ancestors. Besides, masks are more often used in processions and in rituals rather than in theatrical performances.

There are three categories of masks: first, masks representing faces of gods which are worn by human beings mostly during ritual dances, a second category, masks which serve as ornamental motifs for decorating a temple, a chariot during a procession, a vase used as a ritual object. A third category includes masks in metal or stone representing also the face of a god and which are worshipped like statues. They are called statue-masks. The metal used for making them are silver, brass or bronze. These masks are often decorated with jewels and when they are not worshipped are kept in a wooden box inside the temple.